PARIS – Definitely this season was not the dead of the RockStar, Ann Demeulemeester keeps the vibe with his S/S 2015 collection.
When Sébastien Meunier took over as creative director of Ann Demeulemeester last season, he was being handed a poisoned chalice. As these things go, it probably seemed like an easy gig—the look that Ann herself established is so identifiable and distinctive, surely all that would be required is a seasonal re-scrambling of the essential elements: some deconstructed tailoring here, a bit of smudgy layering there. Black and white. Sensual textures. Some diaphanous wafting. Presto! Collection à la Ann.
From tilted waistcoat to tailored perfecto, Meunier executed the familiar, languid shapes of Ann’s oeuvre with a new confidence, allowing poor and precious textiles to stand equal stead—the Hessian rub of slub cotton coats cocooning over long crepe tunics, dainty camisoles, and fine mesh knits. Gilets and blazers were sliced at the nape of the neck, cascading into a mille-feuille of raw layers that tied and buckled with trailing straps—a brand signature amplified for a punkish opulence. Balancing the weight of those heavier textiles, Meunier lightened and brightened the moodier looks with a slew of daring, transparent pieces—from open gazar shirts to wide, washed silk columns worn over trousers, both resplendent with dandelions. Even those optical whites took a fleeting backseat as a sudden crash of icy lavender spilled forth, forming an angelic trio of gowns that stole the show with their piercing, diaphanous splendor. Source: vogue.com