LONDON, UNITED KINGDOM – AGI & SAM are not any longer the new children on the block. After they handed over the reigns as “Emerging Menswear Designer of the Year” to Craig Green recent British Fashion Awards, it felt sort of a ceremony of passage. The council’s endorsement and their natural could not have been more helpful in launching a brand. Such early successes but might prove cataclysmic to some designers, notably once the main target gets amused to manufacturing “critically-acclaimed” collections instead of honing in their personal voice. Nowadays Agi & Sam presented a show that brought back the emphasis on the latter, reminding us why they are so endearing in the first place: just a pair of British lads “doing their own thing”.
Fall/Winter 2015 began with a visit to Agi’s family house in Yorkshire where he discovered very old drawings of a set titled “The Coolman Collection”, formed at the tender age of four. It then sparked the thought of involving primary school students from Agi’s school tasked to sketch out their dream clothes. The result was a deeply personal offer free of grown up inhibitions.
Crayola-tones or abstractionist colour-blocking –- counting on your most well-liked cup of tea –- accented collection. Household tailoring segued into additional deconstructed shapes, with clever Velcro seams barely piecing the patterns along. The match was simply slightly oversized, like children enjoying dress up. The comparisons to Comme des Garcons and Jacquemus, via the cutouts and paneling, were inevitable. However the toy facemasks utilized meagrely were barely enough to print collection into people’s minds.
Truth be told, Agi & Sam outwitted the audience nowadays, several of whom came to the show expecting larger and grander from London’s most promising designers. however a collection designed by a precious 4-year old Agi gets a Carte Blanche any day. Thankfully, an escape clause wasn’t what they required nowadays.